Healthy pets are happy companions, and the best way to keep your pet healthy is through regular care and close attention to any signs of illness. If you don’t already have a veterinarian, find one in your area who you and your pet are comfortable with. Of course, we think you won’t find a better partner for your pet’s health than the veterinarians and staff at Brickyard Animal Hospital, but even if you choose another care facility please take your pet in for regular check-ups. Regular visits to your veterinarian can mean fewer health problems for you and your pet. Your veterinarian can give you tips on how to give the best care to your pet. They can also give you information on any new technologies, medicines, or procedures available.
Click on the boxes to learn more about health care topics. And scroll down for tips on how to care for different types of pets!
Healthy pets are happy companions, and the best way to keep your pet healthy is through regular care and close attention to any signs of illness. If you don’t already have a veterinarian, find one in your area who you and your pet are comfortable with. Of course, we think you won’t find a better partner for your pet’s health than the veterinarians and staff at Brickyard Animal Hospital, but even if you choose another care facility please take your pet in for regular check-ups. Regular visits to your veterinarian can mean fewer health problems for you and your pet. Your veterinarian can give you tips on how to give the best care to your pet. They can also give you information on any new technologies, medicines, or procedures available.
Click on the boxes to learn more about health care topics. And scroll down for tips on how to care for different types of pets!
Avian Care
Wing clipping is usually performed by avian veterinarians, pet store employees, breeders, or the birds’ owners themselves.
It is generally carried out on pet birds, particularly parrots. It is quite distinct from pinioning, which is carried out by amputation of the wing at the carpal joint. Most birds can regain their flying abilities after wing-clipping if they are allowed to re-grow their feathers. While clipping is endorsed by some avian veterinarians, other avian veterinarians oppose it.
The purpose of wing-clipping is to reduce or prevent a bird’s ability to fly. This is seen as a means of preventing it from escaping by flight if it ends up outdoors and increasing its pet potential.
Techniques for clipping the wings vary primarily in the number of feathers cut and the amount of each feather left behind. A mild clip on one wing only can impair a bird’s flight greatly, as it renders the bird unbalanced in the air. This can cause injury or death to the bird if it strikes a hard surface during a fall. In most cases, it is only the primary flight feathers that are cut, and an equal number of feathers are trimmed on each wing to avoid causing the bird to become unbalanced in flight. The most common clip involves trimming the primary flight feathers below the level of the primary coverts (usually removing about 1/2 to 1/3 of the length of the flight feather). This clip is quick and simple to do, but leaves exposed cut ends that occasionally may cause a bird to chew on the cut feathers. Another method of clipping involves cutting the flight feather above the level of the coverts, so almost the entire feather is removed. This clip does not leave any exposed cut ends, but as more of each feather is removed, fewer feathers should be cut. However, these cut feather stumps are still present and may irritate the bird, causing significant discomfort.
Where parrots have clipped primary feathers, the moulting sequence of these birds (Juniper and Parr, 1998) renders them vulnerable to damage of their growing blood feathers. Most parrots have 10 primary feathers, numbered 1 (innermost) to 10 (outermost). The moult starts by the bird shedding and replacing a central primary feather, usually number 6 (Glendell 2007). The sequence continues in both directions along the primaries, so the last primary feathers to be replaced are the innermost and the outermost ones numbered 1 and 10 respectively. Clipped birds therefore have their first blood feathers growing down without the normal protection of full-length feathers lying next to them. These unprotected blood feathers are vulnerable to being broken and profuse bleeding can occur. Most parrots, regardless of their size replace their feathers by a daily growth rate of 3 to 4 mm (Glendell 2007) Thus, large species such as macaws may take over a year to complete a moult, but smaller species such as cockatiels will moult within a few weeks. So, larger birds, and those with a higher wing-loading, remain vulnerable to blood feather damage for a longer period, since they are moulting almost continually.
A ‘light’ symmetrical wing-clip will allow a bird to fly down and land safely while indoors. However such a clip may not prevent the bird from flying when outdoors, since lift is generated in proportion to wind speed. Many escaped birds which are recovered, are found to have been clipped. So, while a light clip allows downward flight indoors, it does not prevent a bird gaining lift if it should escape outdoors. Conversely, a more severe clip will certainly render a bird flightless, but it increases the risk of injury if the bird falls and hits a hard surface. In addition to the physical effects of wing-clipping, there can be adverse behavioral effects. Birds use flight as an instinctive reflex action and as their first means of escaping any threat: they take to the air to fly upwards and away from the source of the threat; their fear then dissipates. Where this behavior is prevented by wing-clipping, this innate reflex action is denied the bird, and its fear will not subside. This may cause behavioral problems for the afflicted bird. When a bird needs to reduce its speed during flight, it employs a ‘reverse thrust’ action by extending its wing at the wrist joint and using the drag of its primaries as air brakes. While the reduced function of the clipped bird’s primaries prevent propulsion and therefore lift, this also reduces braking abilities, so clipped birds may crash-land at higher speeds than full-winged birds.
By restricting flight, wing clipping may help prevent indoor birds from risking injury from ceiling fans or flying into large windows. But there is no evidence to show that clipped birds are safer than full-winged ones, only that clipped birds are subject to different kinds of accidents than full-winged birds. Social pet birds (such as parrots) may also be clipped both to restrict independence and in attempts to make them tamer and easier to manage in order to encourage them to socialize with their owners. Some parrots that show aggression to certain people or other birds may be clipped to prevent attack. However, birds can be trained to accept flight requests or ‘commands’ and this removes the need for wing-clipping (Glendell 2007). Clipped birds should not be taken outdoors unrestrained, as even clipped birds have been known to fly away when spooked outdoors.
It is generally considered very important for a young bird to be allowed to fledge (learn to fly) properly, prior to any wing clipping. Breeders and owners usually find that a fledged bird, even after being clipped, will remain more confident and active than an unfledged bird. Learning to fly also helps a bird learn how to land safely, an important skill even in clipped birds.
The purpose of wing-clipping is to reduce or prevent a bird’s ability to fly. This is seen as a means of preventing it from escaping by flight if it ends up outdoors and increasing its pet potential.
Techniques for clipping the wings vary primarily in the number of feathers cut and the amount of each feather left behind. A mild clip on one wing only can impair a bird’s flight greatly, as it renders the bird unbalanced in the air. This can cause injury or death to the bird if it strikes a hard surface during a fall. In most cases, it is only the primary flight feathers that are cut, and an equal number of feathers are trimmed on each wing to avoid causing the bird to become unbalanced in flight. The most common clip involves trimming the primary flight feathers below the level of the primary coverts (usually removing about 1/2 to 1/3 of the length of the flight feather). This clip is quick and simple to do, but leaves exposed cut ends that occasionally may cause a bird to chew on the cut feathers. Another method of clipping involves cutting the flight feather above the level of the coverts, so almost the entire feather is removed. This clip does not leave any exposed cut ends, but as more of each feather is removed, fewer feathers should be cut. However, these cut feather stumps are still present and may irritate the bird, causing significant discomfort.
Where parrots have clipped primary feathers, the moulting sequence of these birds (Juniper and Parr, 1998) renders them vulnerable to damage of their growing blood feathers. Most parrots have 10 primary feathers, numbered 1 (innermost) to 10 (outermost). The moult starts by the bird shedding and replacing a central primary feather, usually number 6 (Glendell 2007). The sequence continues in both directions along the primaries, so the last primary feathers to be replaced are the innermost and the outermost ones numbered 1 and 10 respectively. Clipped birds therefore have their first blood feathers growing down without the normal protection of full-length feathers lying next to them. These unprotected blood feathers are vulnerable to being broken and profuse bleeding can occur. Most parrots, regardless of their size replace their feathers by a daily growth rate of 3 to 4 mm (Glendell 2007) Thus, large species such as macaws may take over a year to complete a moult, but smaller species such as cockatiels will moult within a few weeks. So, larger birds, and those with a higher wing-loading, remain vulnerable to blood feather damage for a longer period, since they are moulting almost continually.
A ‘light’ symmetrical wing-clip will allow a bird to fly down and land safely while indoors. However such a clip may not prevent the bird from flying when outdoors, since lift is generated in proportion to wind speed. Many escaped birds which are recovered, are found to have been clipped. So, while a light clip allows downward flight indoors, it does not prevent a bird gaining lift if it should escape outdoors. Conversely, a more severe clip will certainly render a bird flightless, but it increases the risk of injury if the bird falls and hits a hard surface. In addition to the physical effects of wing-clipping, there can be adverse behavioral effects. Birds use flight as an instinctive reflex action and as their first means of escaping any threat: they take to the air to fly upwards and away from the source of the threat; their fear then dissipates. Where this behavior is prevented by wing-clipping, this innate reflex action is denied the bird, and its fear will not subside. This may cause behavioral problems for the afflicted bird. When a bird needs to reduce its speed during flight, it employs a ‘reverse thrust’ action by extending its wing at the wrist joint and using the drag of its primaries as air brakes. While the reduced function of the clipped bird’s primaries prevent propulsion and therefore lift, this also reduces braking abilities, so clipped birds may crash-land at higher speeds than full-winged birds.
By restricting flight, wing clipping may help prevent indoor birds from risking injury from ceiling fans or flying into large windows. But there is no evidence to show that clipped birds are safer than full-winged ones, only that clipped birds are subject to different kinds of accidents than full-winged birds. Social pet birds (such as parrots) may also be clipped both to restrict independence and in attempts to make them tamer and easier to manage in order to encourage them to socialize with their owners. Some parrots that show aggression to certain people or other birds may be clipped to prevent attack. However, birds can be trained to accept flight requests or ‘commands’ and this removes the need for wing-clipping (Glendell 2007). Clipped birds should not be taken outdoors unrestrained, as even clipped birds have been known to fly away when spooked outdoors.
It is generally considered very important for a young bird to be allowed to fledge (learn to fly) properly, prior to any wing clipping. Breeders and owners usually find that a fledged bird, even after being clipped, will remain more confident and active than an unfledged bird. Learning to fly also helps a bird learn how to land safely, an important skill even in clipped birds.
Feline Care
Toxic substances
Some houseplants are harmful to cats. For example,
the leaves of the Easter Lily can cause permanent and life-threatening kidney damage to cats, and Philodendron are also poisonous to cats. The Cat Fanciers’ Association has a full list of plants harmful to cats.
Paracetamol or acetaminophen (trade name Panadol and Tylenol) is extremely toxic to cats, and should not be given to them under any circumstances. Cats lack the necessary glucuronyl transferase enzymes to safely break paracetamol down and minute portions of a normal tablet for humans may prove fatal.Initial symptoms include vomiting, salivation and discoloration of the tongue and gums. After around two days, liver damage is evident, typically giving rise to jaundice. Unlike an overdose in humans, it is rarely liver damage that is the cause of death, instead methaemoglobin formation and the production of Heinz bodies in red blood cells inhibit oxygen transport by the blood, causing asphyxiation. Effective treatment is occasionally possible for small doses, but must be extremely rapid.
Even aspirin, which is sometimes used to treat arthritis in cats, is much more toxic to them than to humans and must be administered cautiously. Similarly, application of minoxidil (Rogaine) to the skin of cats, either accidental or by well-meaning owners attempting to counter loss of fur, has sometimes proved fatal.
In addition to such obvious dangers as insecticides and weed killers, other common household substances that should be used with caution in areas where cats may be exposed to them include mothballs and other naphthalene products, as well as phenol based products often used for cleaning and disinfecting near cats’ feeding areas or litter boxes, such as Pine-Sol, Dettol (Lysol), hexachlorophene, etc.which, although they are widely used without problem, have been sometimes seen to be fatal. Ethylene glycol, often used as an automotive antifreeze, is particularly appealing to cats, and as little as a teaspoonful can be fatal. Essential oils are toxic to cats and there have been reported cases of serious illnesses caused by tea tree oil, and tea tree oil-based flea treatments and shampoos.
Many human foods are somewhat toxic to cats; theobromine in chocolate can cause theobromine poisoning, for instance, although few cats will eat chocolate. Toxicity in cats ingesting relatively large amounts of onions or garlic has also been reported.
Some houseplants are harmful to cats. For example,
the leaves of the Easter Lily can cause permanent and life-threatening kidney damage to cats, and Philodendron are also poisonous to cats. The Cat Fanciers’ Association has a full list of plants harmful to cats.
Paracetamol or acetaminophen (trade name Panadol and Tylenol) is extremely toxic to cats, and should not be given to them under any circumstances. Cats lack the necessary glucuronyl transferase enzymes to safely break paracetamol down and minute portions of a normal tablet for humans may prove fatal.Initial symptoms include vomiting, salivation and discoloration of the tongue and gums. After around two days, liver damage is evident, typically giving rise to jaundice. Unlike an overdose in humans, it is rarely liver damage that is the cause of death, instead methaemoglobin formation and the production of Heinz bodies in red blood cells inhibit oxygen transport by the blood, causing asphyxiation. Effective treatment is occasionally possible for small doses, but must be extremely rapid.
Even aspirin, which is sometimes used to treat arthritis in cats, is much more toxic to them than to humans and must be administered cautiously. Similarly, application of minoxidil (Rogaine) to the skin of cats, either accidental or by well-meaning owners attempting to counter loss of fur, has sometimes proved fatal.
In addition to such obvious dangers as insecticides and weed killers, other common household substances that should be used with caution in areas where cats may be exposed to them include mothballs and other naphthalene products, as well as phenol based products often used for cleaning and disinfecting near cats’ feeding areas or litter boxes, such as Pine-Sol, Dettol (Lysol), hexachlorophene, etc.which, although they are widely used without problem, have been sometimes seen to be fatal. Ethylene glycol, often used as an automotive antifreeze, is particularly appealing to cats, and as little as a teaspoonful can be fatal. Essential oils are toxic to cats and there have been reported cases of serious illnesses caused by tea tree oil, and tea tree oil-based flea treatments and shampoos.
Many human foods are somewhat toxic to cats; theobromine in chocolate can cause theobromine poisoning, for instance, although few cats will eat chocolate. Toxicity in cats ingesting relatively large amounts of onions or garlic has also been reported.
Canine Care
Dangerous foods
Some foods commonly enjoyed by humans are dangerous:
* Dogs love the flavor of chocolate, but chocolate in sufficient doses is lethally toxic to dogs
Chocolate contains theobromine, a chemical stimulant that, together with caffeine and theophylline, belongs to the group of methylxanthine alkaloids. Dogs are unable to metabolize theobromine effectively. If they eat chocolate, the theobromine can remain in their bloodstreams for up to 20 hours, and these animals may experience fast heart rate, hallucinations, severe diarrhea, epileptic seizures, heart attacks, internal bleeding, and eventually death. A chocolate bar can be sufficient to make a small dog extremely ill or even kill it. Approximately thirty grams of baking chocolate per kilogram (1/2 ounce per pound) of body weight is enough to be poisonous. In case of accidental intake of chocolate by especially a smaller dog, contact a veterinarian or animal poison control immediately; it is commonly recommended to induce vomiting within two hours of ingestion. Large breeds are less susceptible to chocolate poisoning, but still far less tolerant of the substance than humans.
Note: Carob treats are often available as dog treats; these are unrelated to chocolate and are safe.
* It has recently been confirmed that grapes and raisins can cause acute kidney failure in dogs.
The exact mechanism is not known, nor is there any means to determine the susceptibility of an individual dog. While as little as one raisin can be toxic to a susceptible ten pound dog, some other dogs have eaten as much as a pound of grapes or raisins at a time without ill effects. The affected dog usually vomits a few hours after consumption and begins showing signs of renal failure three to five days later.
* Onions contain thiosulfate which causes hemolytic anemia in dogs (and cats).
Thiosulfate levels are not affected by cooking or processing. Small puppies have died of hemolytic anemia after being fed baby food containing onion powder. Occasional exposure to small amounts is usually not a problem, but continuous exposure to even small amounts can be a serious threat. Also garlic contains thiosulfate, even if to a significantly lesser extent, and it is also known to cause diarrhea and vomiting. Small doses of garlic 5-6 times per week can improve dog health, since garlic is a natural antimicrobial and helps to prevent heart disease. It is stated that garlic have also repellent effects on fleas and ticks, especially in combination with brewer’s or nutritional yeast.
* Macadamia nuts can cause stiffness, tremors, hyperthermia, and abdominal pain.
The exact mechanism is not known. Most dogs recover with supportive care when the source of exposure is removed.
* Alcoholic beverages pose much the same temptation and hazard to dogs as to humans.
A drunk dog displays behavior analogous to that of an intoxicated person.
* Hops, a plant used in making beer, can cause malignant hyperthermia in dogs.
Certain breeds, such as Greyhounds, seem particularly sensitive to hop toxicity, but hops should be kept away from all dogs. Even small amounts of hops can trigger a potentially deadly reaction, even if the hops are “spent” after use in brewing.
* Xylitol is a sugar substitute used in chewing gum, vitamins, candy, & toothpaste.
Although empirical studies indicate xylitol may be safe for dogs, there have been cases of foods, candies and gums containing xylitol causing toxic or even fatal liver damage in dogs and should be avoided
* Some dogs have food allergies just as humans do.
this is particular to the individual dog and not characteristic of the species as a whole. An example is a dog becoming physically ill from salmon; many humans likewise have seafood allergies.
* If dogs eat the pits of fruits.
such as peaches and apricots or apple seeds, they can get cyanide poisoning due to cyanogenic glycosides. However, the dog has to chew on the pit or seed to release the cyanide. Swallowing them whole will not cause poisoning but may lead to choking.
Common household substances – Some common chemicals are dangerous:
* Antifreeze, due to its sweet taste, poses an extreme danger of poisoning to a dog (or cat) that either drinks from a spill or licks it off its fur..
The antifreeze itself is not toxic, but is metabolized in the liver to a compound which causes kidney failure, and eventual seizures, and death. By the time symptoms are observed, the kidneys are usually too damaged for the dog to survive so acting quickly is important. Immediate treatment is to administer apomorphine or peroxide solution in an effort to get the animal to vomit up as much of the antifreeze as possible. Next, it is critical to immediately get the animal to a veterinarian. Fomepizole is considered the preferred treatment for treating ethylene glycol toxicoses in dogs. Ethanol can also be used in cats and dogs, however it does have several unfavorable side effects. Ethanol occupies the enzymes in the dog’s liver, long enough for the unmetabolized antifreeze to be passed out harmlessly through the kidneys. Dogs should not be allowed access to any place in which an antifreeze leak or spill has happened until the spill is completely cleaned out. Even a very small amount such as a tablespoon can easily prove fatal. Some brands of antifreeze that contain propylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol are marketed as being less harmful or less attractive to animals.
* Mouse and rat poison is commonly found in the house or garage.
Dogs readily eat these poisons, which look like small green blocks and are very attractive to them. The poisons work by depleting stores of Vitamin K in the body, without which blood can not clot properly. Symptoms of poisoning include depression, weakness, difficulty breathing, bruising, and bleeding from any part of the body. These symptoms often take 3 to 4 days to show up. A blood test will show that the blood is not clotting properly. If the poison has only recently been ingested (within 2 to 3 hours), the dog should be given apomorphine or hydrogen peroxide to make it vomit. Activated charcoal can be given to absorb any remaining poison in the gastrointestinal tract. Then the dog is given Vitamin K supplementation for 3 to 4 weeks, depending on the type of poison. At the end of treatment, the clotting times should be tested again. The prognosis is good in these cases. However, if the dog is already showing signs of poisoning, it is too late to try and remove the poison from the body. A whole blood transfusion or plasma is given to treat the anemia and to try and control bleeding. Vitamin K is also given. The prognosis is poor in these cases.
Mouse and rat poisons containing cholecalciferol cause hypercalcemia and hyperphosphatemia.
Symptoms include depression, loss of appetite, vomiting blood, weakness, and shock. Treatment is as above for recent exposure. When hypercalcemia occurs (which can take 1 to 2 weeks), treatment is with intravenous fluids (saline), diuretics, corticosteroids, and calcitonin. Long term prognosis is good once the dog is stabilized.
* Zinc toxicity, mostly in the form of the ingestion of US pennies minted after 1982.
Commonly fatal in dogs where it causes a severe hemolytic anemia.
Reference Doc: Wikipedia – Dog Health
Some foods commonly enjoyed by humans are dangerous:
* Dogs love the flavor of chocolate, but chocolate in sufficient doses is lethally toxic to dogs
Chocolate contains theobromine, a chemical stimulant that, together with caffeine and theophylline, belongs to the group of methylxanthine alkaloids. Dogs are unable to metabolize theobromine effectively. If they eat chocolate, the theobromine can remain in their bloodstreams for up to 20 hours, and these animals may experience fast heart rate, hallucinations, severe diarrhea, epileptic seizures, heart attacks, internal bleeding, and eventually death. A chocolate bar can be sufficient to make a small dog extremely ill or even kill it. Approximately thirty grams of baking chocolate per kilogram (1/2 ounce per pound) of body weight is enough to be poisonous. In case of accidental intake of chocolate by especially a smaller dog, contact a veterinarian or animal poison control immediately; it is commonly recommended to induce vomiting within two hours of ingestion. Large breeds are less susceptible to chocolate poisoning, but still far less tolerant of the substance than humans.
Note: Carob treats are often available as dog treats; these are unrelated to chocolate and are safe.
* It has recently been confirmed that grapes and raisins can cause acute kidney failure in dogs.
The exact mechanism is not known, nor is there any means to determine the susceptibility of an individual dog. While as little as one raisin can be toxic to a susceptible ten pound dog, some other dogs have eaten as much as a pound of grapes or raisins at a time without ill effects. The affected dog usually vomits a few hours after consumption and begins showing signs of renal failure three to five days later.
* Onions contain thiosulfate which causes hemolytic anemia in dogs (and cats).
Thiosulfate levels are not affected by cooking or processing. Small puppies have died of hemolytic anemia after being fed baby food containing onion powder. Occasional exposure to small amounts is usually not a problem, but continuous exposure to even small amounts can be a serious threat. Also garlic contains thiosulfate, even if to a significantly lesser extent, and it is also known to cause diarrhea and vomiting. Small doses of garlic 5-6 times per week can improve dog health, since garlic is a natural antimicrobial and helps to prevent heart disease. It is stated that garlic have also repellent effects on fleas and ticks, especially in combination with brewer’s or nutritional yeast.
* Macadamia nuts can cause stiffness, tremors, hyperthermia, and abdominal pain.
The exact mechanism is not known. Most dogs recover with supportive care when the source of exposure is removed.
* Alcoholic beverages pose much the same temptation and hazard to dogs as to humans.
A drunk dog displays behavior analogous to that of an intoxicated person.
* Hops, a plant used in making beer, can cause malignant hyperthermia in dogs.
Certain breeds, such as Greyhounds, seem particularly sensitive to hop toxicity, but hops should be kept away from all dogs. Even small amounts of hops can trigger a potentially deadly reaction, even if the hops are “spent” after use in brewing.
* Xylitol is a sugar substitute used in chewing gum, vitamins, candy, & toothpaste.
Although empirical studies indicate xylitol may be safe for dogs, there have been cases of foods, candies and gums containing xylitol causing toxic or even fatal liver damage in dogs and should be avoided
* Some dogs have food allergies just as humans do.
this is particular to the individual dog and not characteristic of the species as a whole. An example is a dog becoming physically ill from salmon; many humans likewise have seafood allergies.
* If dogs eat the pits of fruits.
such as peaches and apricots or apple seeds, they can get cyanide poisoning due to cyanogenic glycosides. However, the dog has to chew on the pit or seed to release the cyanide. Swallowing them whole will not cause poisoning but may lead to choking.
Common household substances – Some common chemicals are dangerous:
* Antifreeze, due to its sweet taste, poses an extreme danger of poisoning to a dog (or cat) that either drinks from a spill or licks it off its fur..
The antifreeze itself is not toxic, but is metabolized in the liver to a compound which causes kidney failure, and eventual seizures, and death. By the time symptoms are observed, the kidneys are usually too damaged for the dog to survive so acting quickly is important. Immediate treatment is to administer apomorphine or peroxide solution in an effort to get the animal to vomit up as much of the antifreeze as possible. Next, it is critical to immediately get the animal to a veterinarian. Fomepizole is considered the preferred treatment for treating ethylene glycol toxicoses in dogs. Ethanol can also be used in cats and dogs, however it does have several unfavorable side effects. Ethanol occupies the enzymes in the dog’s liver, long enough for the unmetabolized antifreeze to be passed out harmlessly through the kidneys. Dogs should not be allowed access to any place in which an antifreeze leak or spill has happened until the spill is completely cleaned out. Even a very small amount such as a tablespoon can easily prove fatal. Some brands of antifreeze that contain propylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol are marketed as being less harmful or less attractive to animals.
* Mouse and rat poison is commonly found in the house or garage.
Dogs readily eat these poisons, which look like small green blocks and are very attractive to them. The poisons work by depleting stores of Vitamin K in the body, without which blood can not clot properly. Symptoms of poisoning include depression, weakness, difficulty breathing, bruising, and bleeding from any part of the body. These symptoms often take 3 to 4 days to show up. A blood test will show that the blood is not clotting properly. If the poison has only recently been ingested (within 2 to 3 hours), the dog should be given apomorphine or hydrogen peroxide to make it vomit. Activated charcoal can be given to absorb any remaining poison in the gastrointestinal tract. Then the dog is given Vitamin K supplementation for 3 to 4 weeks, depending on the type of poison. At the end of treatment, the clotting times should be tested again. The prognosis is good in these cases. However, if the dog is already showing signs of poisoning, it is too late to try and remove the poison from the body. A whole blood transfusion or plasma is given to treat the anemia and to try and control bleeding. Vitamin K is also given. The prognosis is poor in these cases.
Mouse and rat poisons containing cholecalciferol cause hypercalcemia and hyperphosphatemia.
Symptoms include depression, loss of appetite, vomiting blood, weakness, and shock. Treatment is as above for recent exposure. When hypercalcemia occurs (which can take 1 to 2 weeks), treatment is with intravenous fluids (saline), diuretics, corticosteroids, and calcitonin. Long term prognosis is good once the dog is stabilized.
* Zinc toxicity, mostly in the form of the ingestion of US pennies minted after 1982.
Commonly fatal in dogs where it causes a severe hemolytic anemia.
Reference Doc: Wikipedia – Dog Health
Exotic Pet Care
Health
An exotic pet is a rare or unusual animal pet, or an animal kept as a pet which is not commonly thought of as a pet. The definition is an evolving one; some rodents, reptiles, and amphibians have become firmly enough established in the world of animal fancy to no longer be considered exotic.[citation needed] Sometimes any unique or wild-looking pet (including common domestic animals such as the ferret and the domestic rat) is called an exotic pet. “Exotic” may also be used for a species which is non-indigenous to the owner’s locale.
Many major pet stores and service providers (such as veterinary insurance carriers or online retailers) tend to classify any animal besides cats, dogs, small rodents, small birds or fish as “exotic”.
Veterinary costs for treatment of exotic animals may be significantly higher than for a more conventional pet due to the increased specialization.
Some animals are known to carry diseases that can affect humans, such as salmonellosis and rabies. Similarly, some human diseases can be dangerous for certain animals (like strep throat). Many animals have zoonotic potential. Some of the most lethal viruses, the hemorrhagic fevers, are spread through contact with exotic pets, resulting in high death rates and disabilities for those who survive. The American Veterinary Medical Association, the U.S. Department of Agriculture, the National Animal Control Association, the American Zoo and Aquarium Association and the CDC all discourage the private ownership of certain exotic animals.
An exotic pet is a rare or unusual animal pet, or an animal kept as a pet which is not commonly thought of as a pet. The definition is an evolving one; some rodents, reptiles, and amphibians have become firmly enough established in the world of animal fancy to no longer be considered exotic.[citation needed] Sometimes any unique or wild-looking pet (including common domestic animals such as the ferret and the domestic rat) is called an exotic pet. “Exotic” may also be used for a species which is non-indigenous to the owner’s locale.
Many major pet stores and service providers (such as veterinary insurance carriers or online retailers) tend to classify any animal besides cats, dogs, small rodents, small birds or fish as “exotic”.
Veterinary costs for treatment of exotic animals may be significantly higher than for a more conventional pet due to the increased specialization.
Some animals are known to carry diseases that can affect humans, such as salmonellosis and rabies. Similarly, some human diseases can be dangerous for certain animals (like strep throat). Many animals have zoonotic potential. Some of the most lethal viruses, the hemorrhagic fevers, are spread through contact with exotic pets, resulting in high death rates and disabilities for those who survive. The American Veterinary Medical Association, the U.S. Department of Agriculture, the National Animal Control Association, the American Zoo and Aquarium Association and the CDC all discourage the private ownership of certain exotic animals.
Equine Care
Horse Care – First Aid Kit – Tips/Checklist
A well-stocked equine (and human) first-aid kit should be kept in a place where it is easily accessed. Any used or out-of-date items should be replaced as soon as possible. However, other than for minor injuries, a veterinarian should be consulted before treating a sick or injured animal. Our staff is very familiar with Horse Care needs… Please feel free to contact Dr. Sharp or Dr. Allen with any Horse Care questions you might have. The basic items any equine first-aid kit should include are:
Veterinary medications
In most locations, these are prescription medications and can only be obtained through a licensed Veterinarian. They should generally not be administered without prior consultation with a veterinarian, either over the telephone or by specific advance instruction.
Tools & Diagnostic Equipment
Cleaning supplies
Bandages and other forms of protection
Over-the-counter medications
Other
Reference Doc: Wikipedia – Horse Care
A well-stocked equine (and human) first-aid kit should be kept in a place where it is easily accessed. Any used or out-of-date items should be replaced as soon as possible. However, other than for minor injuries, a veterinarian should be consulted before treating a sick or injured animal. Our staff is very familiar with Horse Care needs… Please feel free to contact Dr. Sharp or Dr. Allen with any Horse Care questions you might have. The basic items any equine first-aid kit should include are:
Veterinary medications
In most locations, these are prescription medications and can only be obtained through a licensed Veterinarian. They should generally not be administered without prior consultation with a veterinarian, either over the telephone or by specific advance instruction.
Tools & Diagnostic Equipment
- Rectal thermometer
- Petroleum jelly (to use as lubrication for thermometer)
- Stethoscope (for listening to heartbeat, respiration and, in the case of suspected colic, gut sounds) Pulse and respiration can be determined without a stethoscope. Gut sounds can be heard by putting one’s ear to the horse’s side, but doing so increases the risk of being kicked by the horse.
- Sharp, clean scissors, reserved for first aid kit only
- Wire cutters (for freeing a tangled horse) or equivalent such as a fencing tool or lineman’s pliers; though these objects are often kept in a well-organized barn, an extra set in a first-aid kit is helpful for major emergencies.
- Flashlight and extra batteries (for nighttime emergencies or to add a light source in a shadowed area).
- Twitch, a device for holding the animal still during minor treatment
- Clean bucket, reserved for first-aid kit only, for washing out wounds
- Clean sponge, reserved for first-aid kit only
- Gauze (for cleaning wounds)
- Cotton balls or sheet cotton for absorbing liquids, particularly good for dipping into liquid products and then squeezing or dabbing the liquid onto a wound. (Cotton used to clean a wound may leave fibers in the injury; gauze is a better product if the wound must be touched.)
- Hypodermic syringe (without needle), for cleaning wounds. (Using the syringe to wash out a wound is preferable to cleaning it with cotton or gauze.) An old syringe, if cleaned first, works fine for this.
- Sterile saline solution, which is used to clean wounds. Contact lens solution may be used for this purpose.
- Latex/medical gloves, unused
- Clean towels and rags
- Disposable rags or paper towels
- Absorbent padding, such as roll cotton or a set of cotton leg wraps (keep a clean set sealed in a plastic bag)
- Gauze to be used as wound dressing underneath bandages
- Sterile wound dressing, such as telfa pads; large sizes of those intended for humans work well.
- Leg Bandages – stable bandages or rolls of self-adhering vet wrap
- Adhesive tape for keeping bandages in place
- Poultice boot, for hoof injuries. (A hoof boot can be used for this purpose, though a medical boot is usually easier to put on and take off)
- Medical grade antibacterial soap
- Wound ointment for minor scrapes.
- Antiseptic/Disinfectant, such as Betadine, diluted iodine solution, or hydrogen peroxide
- Epsom salts for drawing out infection & treating pain
- Poultice dressing. Disposable diapers (nappies) or sanitary napkins may also be cut and used as a poultice as they draw moisture out of wounds. Kaolin clay may also be used as a poultice.
- Phenylbutazone (“Bute”) paste for pain relief
- Flunixin Meglumine (“Banamine”, “Finadyne”) granules or paste for colic treatment
- Acepromazine (“Ace”) or similar tranquilizer pill, paste, or pre-filled injector
- Epinephrine (adrenaline) auto-injectors for emergency treatment of a horse that goes into anaphylactic shock when stung by a bee, wasp or other insect
- Veterinarian’s and farrier’s telephone and emergency numbers.
- A paper and pencil, for recording symptoms, pulse, respiration and veterinary instructions.
- A Veterinary Emergency Handbook, giving basic instructions, in the event that a veterinarian cannot be reached immediately.
- Suitable box/container for all of the above, to keep materials and equipment clean and tidy.
- Helmets – “Lead by example” – Please teach your kids the importance of personal safety.